How to clean eyeglasses properly

This is the proper cleaning method optometrists recommend. It takes about two minutes and works on virtually all prescription glasses, sunglasses, and reading glasses.

• A source of lukewarm water

• A small drop of lotion-free dish soap (Dawn works well)

• A clean microfibre cloth

Hold your glasses under a stream of lukewarm water for 5–10 seconds, letting the water run over both sides of the lenses. This is the most important step, and the one most people skip. Rinsing first removes dust, grit, and any particles that would otherwise get pressed into the coating when you start wiping, the invisible source of most "where did that scratch come from?" moments.

Avoid hot water, it can loosen or damage anti-reflective coatings over time. Room-temperature water is fine if lukewarm isn't easy to get.

Put a small drop of lotion-free dish soap (Dawn is a common favourite) on each lens. Skip any dish soap that lists lotion, moisturiser, or added scents in the ingredients, these leave a film on lenses that's harder to fully rinse off.

Regular hand soap can work in a pinch but often contains moisturisers. Specialty lens cleaners work well but aren't necessary, dish soap is what most optometrists recommend.

Rub the soap in small circles on both sides of each lens using only your fingertips. Cover the entire lens surface, then move to the nose pads, temple arms, and the area where the lens meets the frame.

Fingertips are safer than any cloth for this step because they have no fibres to catch on particles you may have missed. If you feel any grit, rinse again before continuing.

Rinse both sides of each lens under lukewarm water until the water runs clear and no soap remains. Any soap residue left on the lens will dry as visible streaks or a hazy film. Rinse the frame, hinges, and nose pads too.

Shake off excess water first, then dry with a clean microfibre cloth using gentle, straight strokes rather than aggressive circles. Straight strokes lift residue away; circular scrubbing can grind any missed particles into the coating.

Never use paper towels, tissues, napkins, or the corner of your shirt, the fibres and pulp in all four are abrasive enough to leave micro-scratches on lens coatings, even when they feel soft. This is the single most common cause of lens scratching.

Hold the glasses up to a window or bright light and check both sides for streaks or missed spots. If you see anything, buff gently with a clean corner of the microfibre cloth. Most streaks come from soap residue and clear with a light second buff.

This is the section most cleaning guides skip. Readers want specific answers: yes to Dawn, no to Windex, and everything in between. Here's the full list.

• Lotion-free dish soap: Yes, this is the standard recommendation. Dawn Original (without lotion or scent additives) is a common choice, but any lotion-free dish soap works.

• Lukewarm water: Yes. Avoid hot water on coated lenses.

• Microfibre cloth: Yes, dedicated to your glasses. Wash it separately from other laundry (no fabric softener) every few weeks.

• Pre-moistened lens wipes labelled safe for coatings: Yes, when travelling or on the go. Check the label, some contain alcohol; use those sparingly.

• Commercial lens cleaning sprays labelled coating-safe: Yes. Optional but useful for quick daily cleans without water access.

• Rubbing / isopropyl alcohol (70%): Safe on frames and useful for occasional disinfecting, but can damage some anti-reflective coatings if used repeatedly. Use for disinfection after illness rather than daily cleaning.

• Alcohol wipes: Same rule as above, okay on frames and nose pads, use minimally on coated lenses.

• Windex or any ammonia-based glass cleaner: These are formulated for uncoated window glass, not eyewear. Ammonia strips the anti-reflective and anti-scratch coatings applied to prescription lenses.

• Vinegar: The acidity damages lens coatings over time, even in dilute form.

• Baking soda: Abrasive, even mixed with water, the particles can scratch the coating.

• Toothpaste: A common internet recommendation for polishing scratches. The abrasives in toothpaste do more damage than they fix.

• Paper towels, tissues, napkins, toilet paper: All contain wood fibres and pulp that scratch coatings. This includes the "soft" varieties.

• Your shirt: The most convenient option, and the one that causes the most cumulative scratching over time. Cotton is soft to skin, abrasive to lens coatings.

For a deeper look at cleaning products and coatings, the American Optometric Association publishes guidance on optical care.

Cloudy or hazy lenses are one of the most common frustrations glasses wearers describe, the lenses look clean but never quite feel clear. There are three main causes, each with a different fix.

Skin oils, sunscreen, hairspray, hand cream, and cooking vapours all leave microscopic residue on lens surfaces. Over weeks and months, this builds into a haze that a quick wipe doesn't remove. The fix is a proper full clean using the six-step method above, with slightly more soap and longer soap contact time (30 seconds of gentle rubbing before rinsing). Most "cloudy" lenses respond fully to this.

If the haze doesn't come off with proper cleaning, the coating itself may be damaged. Signs include patchy areas that look uneven, rainbow-like distortion in certain light, or a persistent film that reappears within hours of cleaning. Coating damage is permanent, no cleaning method restores it. The fix is a lens replacement, either through your optometrist or by having the same frames re-lensed.

If your lenses cloud up in specific environments (going indoors from cold weather, wearing a mask, cooking, humidity), that's condensation rather than a cleaning issue. Anti-fog sprays and coatings help, and some lens coatings include anti-fog properties. This isn't a cleaning problem, it's an environmental one.

The rim where the lens meets the frame collects dust, skin oils, and residue that's hard to reach with fingertips. Use a soft-bristle toothbrush (dedicated to your glasses, kept dry between uses) or a cotton swab dampened with soap solution. Work gently around the entire rim, then rinse and dry as normal.

Nose pads accumulate skin oils and dead skin faster than any other part of your glasses, which is why they yellow over time. Clean them weekly with soap and a soft toothbrush, focusing on where the pad meets the metal bracket. If the pads are permanently discoloured or hardened, most opticians will replace them for free or a nominal charge.

Hinges collect grit that eventually stiffens the arms. Clean them monthly with a soft brush, then dry thoroughly. Avoid getting soap deep into the hinge mechanism, if the arms feel stiff after cleaning, that's usually built-up grit and a professional adjustment will fix it faster than home cleaning.

Microfibre cloths accumulate the same residue they clean off your lenses. If your cloth feels less absorbent than it used to, or leaves streaks even after a full clean, it's time to wash it. Hand-wash in warm water with a small amount of lotion-free dish soap, rinse thoroughly, and air-dry. Never use fabric softener, it coats the fibres and destroys their absorbency. A microfibre cloth washed correctly lasts a year or longer.

Different lens coatings and frame materials benefit from slightly different care.

AR lens coatings are the most sensitive to aggressive cleaning. Follow the six-step method exactly, always rinse first, use lotion-free soap only, dry with microfibre. Avoid alcohol-based wipes for routine cleaning; save alcohol for disinfection after illness. All Kraywoods prescription lenses include anti-reflective coating as standard, applied in the Canadian optical lab, so these rules apply to any Kraywoods pair.

Blue light filtering coatings behave the same as anti-reflective coatings from a cleaning perspective, same rules apply. Some blue light coatings have a slight yellow or purple tint at certain angles, which is normal and not a cleaning issue.

Photochromic lenses don't need special cleaning products, but temperature matters. The chemistry that changes their tint is affected by heat, so avoid hot water and don't leave glasses in a hot car for extended periods. Standard cleaning with lukewarm water and dish soap is safe.

Wood is beautiful but needs different care than acetate or metal. Never soak wooden frames in water, instead, wipe with a slightly damp microfibre cloth after cleaning the lenses. Every few months, a light coat of food-grade oil (mineral oil or walnut oil) applied with a soft cloth restores the finish and keeps the wood from drying out. Store away from direct sunlight and extreme humidity.

Bio-acetate frames handle regular soap and water without issue. Avoid alcohol directly on the frame, it can dull the finish over time. If the frame has a colour or pattern, clean gently to preserve the surface layer.

Metal frames are the most tolerant of cleaning. Soap and water are fine, alcohol is fine on the frame. The main concern is drying thoroughly around the hinges and any screws, moisture trapped in metal joints causes eventual corrosion. Air-dry or pat-dry with a clean cloth.

How you handle your glasses between cleans affects how often they need a full clean and how long the coatings last. Six habits keep glasses cleaner for longer:

• Take glasses off with both hands, holding the temple arms rather than pulling from one side. Single-handed removal misaligns the frame over time and puts pressure on the hinges.

• Store glasses in a hard case when not wearing them, with the lenses facing up so they don't rest on the coated surface.

• Don't rest glasses on top of your head. It stretches the temple arms, weakens the fit, and transfers hair products to the frame and lenses.

• Don't push glasses up your nose with a fingertip on the bridge, it transfers skin oil directly to the frame and, over time, distorts the nose piece on wire frames. Use two fingers on the temples instead.

• Never leave glasses in a hot car, on a windowsill in direct sun, or near heat sources like a stovetop or dashboard. Heat degrades coatings and warps some frame materials.

• Keep glasses away from sinks, cleaning products, and chemical fumes. Chlorine, ammonia, and acetone are all coating-hostile.

Most cleaning can be done at home, but a few situations call for professional service:

• Persistent cloudiness that doesn't respond to a full soap-and-water clean, likely coating damage requiring lens replacement

• Debris or residue lodged in the hinges that home cleaning can't reach, an optician can disassemble the frame temporarily

• Yellowed or hardened nose pads, most opticians replace nose pads for free or minimal charge, even on frames not bought from them

• Loose screws, bent temples, or misaligned hinges, while getting a professional adjustment, ask for an ultrasonic cleaning at the same time

• Rinse before wiping, the single most important step and the one most people skip.

• Lotion-free dish soap and a clean microfibre cloth are the only two products most people need.

• Never use Windex, vinegar, baking soda, toothpaste, paper towels, tissues, or your shirt on coated lenses.

• Cloudy lenses that don't respond to a proper clean usually indicate coating damage, the fix is lens replacement, not more cleaning.

• Different coatings and frame materials benefit from slightly different care, wooden frames especially, which should never be soaked.

Proper cleaning is the single biggest factor in how long your lenses stay clear and how long your coatings last. The six-step method takes two minutes and prevents years of accumulated scratching from paper towels, shirt corners, and the wrong cleaning products. If your lenses have reached the point where cleaning no longer restores clarity, that's usually a coating problem, not a cleaning failure, and the fix is a lens replacement rather than more scrubbing.

Explore prescription glasses or prescription sunglasses with anti-reflective and anti-scratch coatings included as standard, made in Kraywoods' Canadian optical lab.